So I remember having a dream/nightmare last night, in which I was sharing a cab with some friends on a Sunday to get to the airport. I was trying to catch a flight to get home for Christmas, and it was snowing in Quito and the cab driver was actually driving slowly (this never happens) and I realized that I didn't apply for my "Permission to Leave" document so I would forever loose my flight and I'd be stuck in Quito... forever...
This was my own personal nightmare.
Luckily it was just a dream and Quito isn't that bad, anyway, right?
Friday, December 14
Sunday, December 2
Migration woes
Greetings from Quito! I write after a hiatus of a few weeks so that I could visit the states and relax before beginning part 2 of the practicum. The vacation itself was great, but traveling was a bit hairy. This was mostly due to my own stupidity.
I have a volunteer visa so that I would be able to stay legally in Ecuador for more than 6 months, with out having to worry about if a visitor/tourist visa extension would be approved. I assumed that because I was a gringa, that I would have to follow the norms and rules that most other gringos follow: enter the country and leave whenever you desire, withing a given amount of time. Unfortunately, since I had a proper visa, I had to follow a more complicated set of rules and norms that residents and citizens have to abide by: asking for permission to leave before leaving the country.
So when I applied for my visa in DC, I was given a paper (that of course I did not read) that said "Visit the migration office for foreigners within 30 days of entering Ecuador". Of course I didn't do that, because I thought that it wasn't obligatory/necessary/something that I could be fined 200 dollars if I didn't complete it. Anyway, a few weeks before my trip, I realized that I needed to get an identity document, called a "Censo". So in trying to cut through the red tape and get my Censo, I had to register my visa with another office, because I got it outside of Ecuador. This entailed 3 whole days of running around to different government offices, crying in said offices, paying fines various banks, and making sculptures out of red tape.
I finally got my Censo (214 dollars, 4 passport pictures, 10 taxi rides, 1 manila envelope, 2 letters from landlord & boss, and 3 copies of my passport later), the day before my flight. I packed my bag chock full of South American goodies for family and friends, and went to the airport early Saturday morning. I checked in with the airline, paid my departure tax, and approached Migration. The woman in the UPS-like uniform asked me for my boarding pass, passport and "Permission to Leave" document. I started crying when she told me that I was not allowed to leave Ecuador without having permission to leave. She advised that I go back downstairs to the check-in counter, switch my flight to later that day, and go BACK to the migration office so that I could get this "Permission to Leave" document.
I took yet another taxi to yet another migration office at 6:30 in the morning (since being at the airport at 4:00 AM). I waited with a couple from Colombia for the office to open, and finally got my "Permission to leave" document. Took it back to the airport, and hoped on my flight to Miami and finally Newark to see Steve's smiling face. I was never so happy to be in New Jersey.
Although I've learned academically that you can not apply my ethno-centric norms and expectations to every other cultural context, this was an eye-opening experience that re-confirmed this point. I assumed that all people had the ability to leave their own country without permission from the government, and that since I was a foreigner I would not need to heed the same set of rules. But, since I have the privilege of staying in Ecuador for more than 6 months as a volunteer, I have to adapt my expectations and behaviors to fit the context.
The other ironic point in all of this is that I got caught up in immigration problems, despite the fact that I spent two years working with immigrants and refugees in the US. One would think that I would have learned something about following the rules with respect to immigration when abroad. Some lessons are learned the hard way, I suppose.
I have a volunteer visa so that I would be able to stay legally in Ecuador for more than 6 months, with out having to worry about if a visitor/tourist visa extension would be approved. I assumed that because I was a gringa, that I would have to follow the norms and rules that most other gringos follow: enter the country and leave whenever you desire, withing a given amount of time. Unfortunately, since I had a proper visa, I had to follow a more complicated set of rules and norms that residents and citizens have to abide by: asking for permission to leave before leaving the country.
So when I applied for my visa in DC, I was given a paper (that of course I did not read) that said "Visit the migration office for foreigners within 30 days of entering Ecuador". Of course I didn't do that, because I thought that it wasn't obligatory/necessary/something that I could be fined 200 dollars if I didn't complete it. Anyway, a few weeks before my trip, I realized that I needed to get an identity document, called a "Censo". So in trying to cut through the red tape and get my Censo, I had to register my visa with another office, because I got it outside of Ecuador. This entailed 3 whole days of running around to different government offices, crying in said offices, paying fines various banks, and making sculptures out of red tape.
I finally got my Censo (214 dollars, 4 passport pictures, 10 taxi rides, 1 manila envelope, 2 letters from landlord & boss, and 3 copies of my passport later), the day before my flight. I packed my bag chock full of South American goodies for family and friends, and went to the airport early Saturday morning. I checked in with the airline, paid my departure tax, and approached Migration. The woman in the UPS-like uniform asked me for my boarding pass, passport and "Permission to Leave" document. I started crying when she told me that I was not allowed to leave Ecuador without having permission to leave. She advised that I go back downstairs to the check-in counter, switch my flight to later that day, and go BACK to the migration office so that I could get this "Permission to Leave" document.
I took yet another taxi to yet another migration office at 6:30 in the morning (since being at the airport at 4:00 AM). I waited with a couple from Colombia for the office to open, and finally got my "Permission to leave" document. Took it back to the airport, and hoped on my flight to Miami and finally Newark to see Steve's smiling face. I was never so happy to be in New Jersey.
Although I've learned academically that you can not apply my ethno-centric norms and expectations to every other cultural context, this was an eye-opening experience that re-confirmed this point. I assumed that all people had the ability to leave their own country without permission from the government, and that since I was a foreigner I would not need to heed the same set of rules. But, since I have the privilege of staying in Ecuador for more than 6 months as a volunteer, I have to adapt my expectations and behaviors to fit the context.
The other ironic point in all of this is that I got caught up in immigration problems, despite the fact that I spent two years working with immigrants and refugees in the US. One would think that I would have learned something about following the rules with respect to immigration when abroad. Some lessons are learned the hard way, I suppose.
Tuesday, November 6
Eek! Its November!
Greetings..
I hope that you enjoy the following blogs that I posted today from the past few weeks. As you can see, its been pretty busy. The first two weeks of November are packed with work-related activities, and I'll be in the states for 10 days for Thanksgiving.
Looking forward to it!
I hope that you enjoy the following blogs that I posted today from the past few weeks. As you can see, its been pretty busy. The first two weeks of November are packed with work-related activities, and I'll be in the states for 10 days for Thanksgiving.
Looking forward to it!
Cochasqui Pyramids
A few weekends ago (hey, who said this blog needed to be in chronological order?) A group of us took the Panamerican Highway north to check out the Cochasqui Pyramids...
Here are some highlights:
A long way to Quito.
These pyramids are mostly pre-excavation- which means they appear as lumps below layers of earth.
Pyramid #14 is said to have magical powers, as llamas climb atop to propagate their species.
This pre-Incan empire had both a solar and lunar calendar.
Llamas ponder the heavens.
Notice the Virgin of Quito in the Background? I can't see her either, but she's there.
Here are some highlights:
A long way to Quito.
These pyramids are mostly pre-excavation- which means they appear as lumps below layers of earth.
Pyramid #14 is said to have magical powers, as llamas climb atop to propagate their species.
This pre-Incan empire had both a solar and lunar calendar.
Llamas ponder the heavens.
Notice the Virgin of Quito in the Background? I can't see her either, but she's there.
Ruins of Incapirca
While in Cuenca last week, my compañeras and I took a side trip to visit the Ruins of Incapirca, pre-Incan stone structures in the Provence of Azuay.
Here are some highlights:
Ruins of Incapirca - a complete village - including classroom, kitchen, community meeting room, llama guillotine.
Sarah, me, Katie, Meagan atop ruins. Apparently it's okay for people to be stomping atop the several hundred year old archaeological wonders.
Me, in guard station. People were shorter back then.
Niches were important things were kept.
I'd set up my village/kingdom in this atmosphere. It's quite nice.
Here are some highlights:
Ruins of Incapirca - a complete village - including classroom, kitchen, community meeting room, llama guillotine.
Sarah, me, Katie, Meagan atop ruins. Apparently it's okay for people to be stomping atop the several hundred year old archaeological wonders.
Me, in guard station. People were shorter back then.
Niches were important things were kept.
I'd set up my village/kingdom in this atmosphere. It's quite nice.
Cuenca, southern Ecuador
Since this past weekend was a double-holiday (Day of the dead and Cuenca's Independence Day), I went to Cuenca with Meagan, Sarah and Katie. Here are some highlights:
Who doesn't love a pristine, Colonial City? In front of Catedral Nueva.
A little too pristine - beauty contest winners of the "Virgin of Mirador"
...way to give teenage girls a complex, eh?
Jesus Christ, Superstar. Iglesia San Blas.
(Some churches seem to be victims of "When Trading Spaces Goes Bad")
Happy Independence, Cuenca! Let's set off fireworks dangerously close to old buildings.
"Día de los difuntos" / Day of the Dead Altar.
I really did enjoy Cuenca- it was a beautiful, peaceful city. I think I'm just a bit bitter because I got a bit of food poisoning this weekend. No worries, by Tuesday it was all gone.
Who doesn't love a pristine, Colonial City? In front of Catedral Nueva.
A little too pristine - beauty contest winners of the "Virgin of Mirador"
...way to give teenage girls a complex, eh?
Jesus Christ, Superstar. Iglesia San Blas.
(Some churches seem to be victims of "When Trading Spaces Goes Bad")
Happy Independence, Cuenca! Let's set off fireworks dangerously close to old buildings.
"Día de los difuntos" / Day of the Dead Altar.
I really did enjoy Cuenca- it was a beautiful, peaceful city. I think I'm just a bit bitter because I got a bit of food poisoning this weekend. No worries, by Tuesday it was all gone.
¡Cotopaxi!
Sarah and I took a trip to the town of Latacunga, south of Quito, so that we could visit the volcano Cotopaxi. Here are some highlights:
As you increase in altitude, the temperature drops, the air gets thinner, and breathing becomes difficult. Very few trees grow up here and the ground is covered with ash.
Me & Cotopaxi. Notice the snow-capped top and lava-influenced valley.
snow!
As you increase in altitude, the temperature drops, the air gets thinner, and breathing becomes difficult. Very few trees grow up here and the ground is covered with ash.
Me & Cotopaxi. Notice the snow-capped top and lava-influenced valley.
snow!
Guaguas de pan y colada morada
November 2nd is "Día de los difuntos" or "Day of the Dead" here in Ecuador. Most families get together on this holiday to make guaguas de pan or child-shaped bread and colada morada - a sweet berry and herb warm beverage. To consume, dip child-shaped bread in berry drink. Enjoy.
Last weekend, I went to a family party with Jessica, Martha Cecilia, Galo, and Diego, out in the countryside north east of Quito to a cousin's farm to create the guaguas. Here are some highlights!
Galo, Martha Cecilia, Jessica and I watch as the guaguas come to life.
Into the oven you go, bread children.
The colada morada simmers over the fire.
I decided to make a pajarito de pan / bird of bread.
Last weekend, I went to a family party with Jessica, Martha Cecilia, Galo, and Diego, out in the countryside north east of Quito to a cousin's farm to create the guaguas. Here are some highlights!
Galo, Martha Cecilia, Jessica and I watch as the guaguas come to life.
Into the oven you go, bread children.
The colada morada simmers over the fire.
I decided to make a pajarito de pan / bird of bread.
Friday, October 5
Its the little things.
I found two yummy things today that only I would enjoy:
1. Fat-Free-Fig-Newtons!!
2. Kale-filled empanada.
Thank goodness for globalization.
1. Fat-Free-Fig-Newtons!!
2. Kale-filled empanada.
Thank goodness for globalization.
Wednesday, October 3
Eek! It´s already October!
Saludos.
How quickly time flies! Updates, in case you have not heard: Stephen is enjoying the foliage from a cabin in northern Vermont, and I am looking forward to visiting seeing him over Thanksgiving.
Last weekend, Ecuador voted for a new Assembly. Official results are not in yet, but rumor has it that Correa won.
In local news, David is visiting Ecuador this week...yay! (Check out his blog, perhaps he´ll have some kind of trip update: http://www.harazquack.blogspot.com/)He arrived today and brought lots of goodies (thanks, SteveO!), including all natural peanut butter, raw honey, annnnnd soap! (Perhaps I will mix them all together at once and gorge on a pb-honey-soap sandwich!)
Work is going well; I´m getting to visit a few work-related sites outside of Quito within the next few days.
Peace be with you!
How quickly time flies! Updates, in case you have not heard: Stephen is enjoying the foliage from a cabin in northern Vermont, and I am looking forward to visiting seeing him over Thanksgiving.
Last weekend, Ecuador voted for a new Assembly. Official results are not in yet, but rumor has it that Correa won.
In local news, David is visiting Ecuador this week...yay! (Check out his blog, perhaps he´ll have some kind of trip update: http://www.harazquack.blogspot.com/)He arrived today and brought lots of goodies (thanks, SteveO!), including all natural peanut butter, raw honey, annnnnd soap! (Perhaps I will mix them all together at once and gorge on a pb-honey-soap sandwich!)
Work is going well; I´m getting to visit a few work-related sites outside of Quito within the next few days.
Peace be with you!
Monday, September 17
Roommates!
I have some great roommates!
Galo and Marta Cecilia on her birthday.
Marta's Birthday Dinner.
Jessica, indicating her continent of origin.
Galo and Marta Cecilia on her birthday.
Marta's Birthday Dinner.
Jessica, indicating her continent of origin.
Its beginning to look a lot like...
Its beginning to look a lot like... Voting Day!
"Museum of Corruption" Notice the Noboa dummy.
"Note: The members of the Assembly have to be of the people/village, not the same corrupt politicians as before. Long live patriotism!"
"Free Thought in Large Plaza"
The vote is obligatory here in Ecuador... can you imagine if that were the case in the States?!? Let's see what happens on September 30th.
"Museum of Corruption" Notice the Noboa dummy.
"Note: The members of the Assembly have to be of the people/village, not the same corrupt politicians as before. Long live patriotism!"
"Free Thought in Large Plaza"
The vote is obligatory here in Ecuador... can you imagine if that were the case in the States?!? Let's see what happens on September 30th.
Friday, September 7
To sum up Guayaquil:
Much like any other city in the world, Guayaquil is a city of extremes.
Notice the children fishing in the brown Río Guayas, while a pirate-flag flying tourist boat sails by. You can see the reflection of the skyscrapers in the glass.
Notice the children fishing in the brown Río Guayas, while a pirate-flag flying tourist boat sails by. You can see the reflection of the skyscrapers in the glass.
Guayaquil
I had the opportunity to attend a conference on Conflict Resolution for Educators earlier this week in Guayaquil. Here are some highlights of my free-time:
Tribute to Ecuadorian poet Medardo Angel Silva.
Guayaquil's Pride and Joy: Malecón 2000. A stellar example of urban renewal.
Las Penas Neighborhood, next to River Guayas.
Despite the Malecón's success, Las Penas is more like "Disney Does Urban Revitalization". Notice the untouched cinderblock in the background.
It was nice to visit a warmer, coastal city. People seemed more laid-back and Caribbean, but I feel that I am a Serrana at heart.
Tribute to Ecuadorian poet Medardo Angel Silva.
Guayaquil's Pride and Joy: Malecón 2000. A stellar example of urban renewal.
Las Penas Neighborhood, next to River Guayas.
Despite the Malecón's success, Las Penas is more like "Disney Does Urban Revitalization". Notice the untouched cinderblock in the background.
It was nice to visit a warmer, coastal city. People seemed more laid-back and Caribbean, but I feel that I am a Serrana at heart.
Tuesday, August 28
Tele-FUN-ico!
Last Saturday, SteveO, Jess (a nice Aussie lass) and I took a trip on the teleférico to the top of Mt. Pichincha.
Caution: Danger of Impact.
Other people riding the teleférico.
4,050 meters above sea level.
Steve and I atop Pichincha.
Jess ponders hiking up the volcano.
Caution: Danger of Impact.
Other people riding the teleférico.
4,050 meters above sea level.
Steve and I atop Pichincha.
Jess ponders hiking up the volcano.
Sweet Bread
Apparently 'sweet bread' in the states signifies cow brains. Here, pan dulce is fantastic. Here is an example of a turtle-shaped, sugar-coated cheese bread:
It was delicious. Right down to its little turtle-feet.
It was delicious. Right down to its little turtle-feet.
Sunday, August 12
Baños
Friday, 10 de Agosto, Ecuador celebrated 198 years of independence from España. Most people had Friday off, so everyone and their brother went to Baños, a 4 hour bus ride from Quito.
Think: Jersey shore but 4,000 feet above sea level nestled between an active volcano and a river. Instead of swimming in the ocean, people bathe in thermal pools heated by the volcano or hike down to the waterfalls. Rather than chugging down the Budweisers, tourists have a nice trago de jugo de caña.
We hiked up to the Virgin of Baños... a hike + 614 steps!
Carlos, me, Stephen, Renee, Kathy. Oh, and the Virgin.
Notice the Emergency Volcano Evacuation Route in the background.
View from behind the Virgin.
We rode the Chiva Bus because it was too muddy to bike or hike to check out the waterfalls.
At the bottom of the waterfall. We should be in a Tesalia (bottled water) ad.
Think: Jersey shore but 4,000 feet above sea level nestled between an active volcano and a river. Instead of swimming in the ocean, people bathe in thermal pools heated by the volcano or hike down to the waterfalls. Rather than chugging down the Budweisers, tourists have a nice trago de jugo de caña.
We hiked up to the Virgin of Baños... a hike + 614 steps!
Carlos, me, Stephen, Renee, Kathy. Oh, and the Virgin.
Notice the Emergency Volcano Evacuation Route in the background.
View from behind the Virgin.
We rode the Chiva Bus because it was too muddy to bike or hike to check out the waterfalls.
At the bottom of the waterfall. We should be in a Tesalia (bottled water) ad.
Mitad del Mundo
I took the bus to the Equator today and visited both tourist attractions.
One is accurate, the other is not.
The French primarily funded the Equator expedition several hundred years ago; however, they mis-calculated by about a quarter of a mile. (This was before GPS, of course.)
Me, lying across the (fake) Equator. (Technically my whole body is in the Southern Hemisphere.)
I'm in the Southern Hemisphere, and Steve is in the Northern Hemisphere. (This is actually pretty telling of our relationship.)
Proof that this is the real Equator: as the water is drained from the sink, there is no clockwise or counter-clockwise swirly. Pretty cool, eh? (PS- it's true: the toilets flush the other way here. I was going to post a picture, but decided you, the reader, would take my word for it.)
One is accurate, the other is not.
The French primarily funded the Equator expedition several hundred years ago; however, they mis-calculated by about a quarter of a mile. (This was before GPS, of course.)
Me, lying across the (fake) Equator. (Technically my whole body is in the Southern Hemisphere.)
I'm in the Southern Hemisphere, and Steve is in the Northern Hemisphere. (This is actually pretty telling of our relationship.)
Proof that this is the real Equator: as the water is drained from the sink, there is no clockwise or counter-clockwise swirly. Pretty cool, eh? (PS- it's true: the toilets flush the other way here. I was going to post a picture, but decided you, the reader, would take my word for it.)
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